Engine - Damper/slipper flywheel
Background
“For the first 3 decades of this century [20th], one of the significant technical problems in the development of automobile engines was crankshaft torsional vibration in 6-cylinder in-line engines.”
Overhaul
The following slipper drive article is an illustrated and enhanced method of it’s removal described in the “Rolls – Royce Small Horsepower Engines” book by R. Haynes and M. A. Grigsby. It is demonstrated on RROC member John Carey’s 1929 20 HP (GEN 36) “N” series during ground up restoration - with the engine in place and the fan, fan belt, and radiator removed.
Timing gear cover
Photo 1: The dynamo drive brake mechanism must be removed before the timing cover. There are two sets of the parts shown that come out of the top and bottom of the drive cover. Shown is one of two 3/16” B.S.F. bolts that may be used to force the cover loose.
Photo 2: The five damper stud nuts are removed in preparation for taking off the lock plate.
Photo 3: The serrated nut (left hand threads), and finally the fan pulley may be removed. To remove the starting dog nut (right hand threads), the flywheel must be blocked.
Photo 4: This blocking tool may be used in place of the starting motor to keep the flywheel from spinning when removing the starting dog nut. It is designed to be used with the long starter bolts if the oil sump is fitted. When the oil sump is off, shorter bolts are used (shown).
Photo 5: Very accurate and carefully tested (TDC) marks on the timing gear, idler gear, and the relationship of the cover stud help to assure correct re-assembly.
Photo 6: The tool shown in position on the front of the crankshaft and ready to apply pull on the damper towards the front. One of the damper stud nuts is off to show the amount of threads that are used.
